Felt thicknesses and making a raw edge

In-depth discussion of the Fedora of Indiana Jones and all other hats appearing in the Indiana Jones movies

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batfan76
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Felt thicknesses and making a raw edge

Post by batfan76 »

Is there a way that makers/purveyors indicate thickness or floppiness?
Like a number/unit (50x or 4.5mm) or something? Or is it a function of the amount of sizing/starch imbued into the felt?

Can you just take the ribbon bumper off of a (non-raw) edged hat--assuming you do it carefully--and convert it into a raw edge?
Fedora
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Post by Fedora »

Is there a way that makers/purveyors indicate thickness or floppiness?
Like a number/unit (50x or 4.5mm) or something? Or is it a function of the amount of sizing/starch imbued into the felt?

Can you just take the ribbon bumper off of a (non-raw) edged hat--assuming you do it carefully--and convert it into a raw edge?
Normally hatter buys felt bodies using grams, or ounces as the indicator of the thickness of the body. 120 grams, 75 grams, etc. The less grams, the lighterweight the felt.

The softness or stiffness of the felt is dependent upon the amount of sizing used. Shellac is a commonly used sizing for felt hats. Different degrees of stiffener is used depending upon whether the body is a dress body, or a western body. I think the tradtional degree of stiffener in a dress body is .04 degrees. Some feltmakers like the Portugal company offer several various degrees, just depending upon what the hatter needs, or wants. Other feltmakers just offer a couple of degrees, one for dress, and one for western. Generally, the brim has a greater degree of stiffener than the crowns.

You can remover the brm binding with just care use of a stitch ripper, or other sharp object. The felt may be a different color under the binding, depending upon how much the felt faded. Fedora
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