Does it just look generally exaggerated to you, or are there specific features that jump out at you as being clearly wrong?
Yes. We tend to exaggerate the hat, IMO. That is one point. What comes to mind right off is the crown height. We tend to make that taller. The next thing is the squareness of the hat. We tend to want it more blocklike, than it actually is, or was. Then the reverse taper. We want a blocked in reverse taper, while the film hat only seemed to have it when the hat was distressed. Those are the main points. Now, with that said, the Raiders fedora was a tall hat, relatively speaking. And it was a very stove piped looking hat too. But, I am talking degrees here, nit-picky points for sure, but this is what this forum is about.
Personally, I lean toward a more tradtional configuration of the block. I would say that 99.9 per cent of hat blocks used for dress hats have some taper, on the front and back of the block. Now, some have lots of front and back taper, on the block shape. And then there are varing degrees of it, with the one that I favor having just a wee bit. That is, if you put a square on it, you would see some. So, it is a matter of degree, really. And, yes we are talking nit picky stuff here, but I just cannot get away from what I have seen in block shapes over the years. And every block that I have seen, has some sort of taper on the front and back. They did that to finess the overall look of the hat. And generally speaking, once creased, the hat straightened up to perfectly straight sides, that is, a square look.
With all of this said, I think we are just discussing a few degrees of front and back taper. I think both yield a good Raiders fedora, and I lean toward what I think the original very old block actually looked like. Still, a matter of opinion, and we are all entitled to that I think.
Too late to do anything more to the hat shown above, as it has been packed up and I am about to mail it. I will get some pics of the next one though and post a finished pic. I will try to remember to get pics of each block shape, and do a comparison soon of the hats that came off of the blocks. I think, that what got me away from the perfectly straight front and back was the angle of the pinch on the front, when viewed from the side. It seems to me that the block with the slight taper yielded a more accurate looking "kick back" of the front pinch. That is, 1/2 inch above the ribbon, the pinched portion does its break, and then angles back at a particular angle. If I remember corrrectly, it was this facet that made me look toward the more traditional tapered front and back. I needed the break to occur at the proper place, and I needed the angle to be closer. But, with this said, I do not know if I was taking into account the characteristics of the felt, which I later discovered to be a hair pulling variable. Those little variable can confuse the issue, believe it or not. Regards, Fedora
It's the third reblock of this thin floppy Borsalino PBBM on a 360 stovepipe block. Each time I enlarged the block. (That's why the brim is almost gone.) The hat has gone from a 7 1/8 that was a good fit, to a size 7 3/8. .. (too) BIG... It's turned, there's a 3mm thick (extra thick) 3/4 inch wide sweat and the ribbon is tightened, more on the top. 6 inch open crown, 4 1/2 inch front pinch height. I had to lower the front and back of the block to get a front that low, in other words, more dome on the block when viewed from the side. 
If these 2 are Poets 
then what's up? 
Fedora
No, I was referring to my friend 3M$. 
(That's my first reblock, the current one is more domed front to back.) The "BIG Breakthough" in the title, has a lot to do with the fact that the hat is 1 1/2 to 2 sizes too big this time, and I'm getting an accurate crown profile, for the first time, even though I've done a 360 stovepipe, thick sweat, tightened ribbon, turned hat, last month- the hat size wasn't as BIG. Maybe an AB 2 sizes too big would do the trick, but I used a total stovepipe and I don't think I could get the same look with a block with significantly more taper.
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Here's my PBBM when it was new. Basicly an AB block, stovepipe sides, not too much taper front and back Different dome than an AB 
Look what I had to do to it to get the Raiders crown! 
Until we find an original Raiders fedora, in pristine condition, your block shape, and mine will be nothing more than a theory. 
looks the same as this from G-man above 
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This does strange things to the crown, maybe stretching the base, giving the hat some taper, in a weird way, and allowing the sides above the sweat to cave in. What I used on the hat in this thread is a 360 length of about 2 and 1/4 paper towels, folded. 
. ........... Fedora, the Cairo crown has mushroomed which would drop the height. It's caved in over the ribbon above Fords's ears. The height of the sides where these cave-ins are, would have to be shorter. Since these same cave-ins aren't there at the very front and back of the hat, the sides got shorter while the front and back didn't. The crown may have have shrunk a little too? ......Here's why I estimate my hat is 1 1/2 to 2 sizes too big. - A 7 1/8 hat is a snug fit for me, and a 7 1/4 is a loose fit. I have an unworn Miller Indy and my new Miller 6x Granger. Both hats are 7 3/8 and are completely stripped. It's hard to start the Miller Indy over my block, and my Granger starts on easier, but it still takes some force.
