Tapered vs. Standard sleeve?

LuckyLighter · Post by **LuckyLighter** » Thu Dec 16, 2004 1:28 pm

Is it possible to get a photo that shows a side by side comparison of tapered sleeves vs. the standard sleeve? I'm going to take the plunge once the holidays are over, and this is something I'd like to examine before I make a decision.

I've already decided on these specs:

Raiders Authentic Brown Goatskin
46L
Extra inch in front
Cotton liner, satin sleeves
Elastic action pleats
Rectangular sliders
Zipper extends as close to bottom of jacket as possible
No inside leather facing on right breast side
1 inside left breast slit pocket
Gun metal or black sliders

Also, can someone post a side by side comparison of X box stitching vs. standard?

And what is the standard front zipper? Is it nickel?

IndianaJames · Post by **IndianaJames** » Thu Dec 16, 2004 1:35 pm

Hmm,
I thought all the sleeves were tapered, dont they have to be? This is an interesting topic!

I J

PS - Standard zipper is weathered brass....

rick5150 · Post by **rick5150** » Thu Dec 16, 2004 4:29 pm

I asked Peter to make the sleeve openings 11 1/2" circumference. I hate giant cuffs like I had on my first Wested. Indy's jacketwas closer fitting. This comparison shot on MK's website shows that jacket like it should be worn. It almost looks like a denim jacket, it is so soft and form-fitting.

rick5150 · Post by **rick5150** » Thu Dec 16, 2004 4:50 pm

I have always loved that shot. Especially when arguing about how blousy the jackets are and how they should be worn if you are going for "The Look" Tighter sleeves that run higher into the armpit - even jacket length shows well here.

Crusader556 · Post by **Crusader556** » Fri Dec 17, 2004 9:53 am

Interesting thread. Does tapering the sleeve make free movement more dificult? Does it tighten up the fit a lot?

Also, does anyone know what the measurements are for the standard untapered sleeve's wrist openings.

rick5150 · Post by **rick5150** » Fri Dec 17, 2004 10:22 am

The measurements on one of my Westeds is 13 1/2" which is big for me. Ideally, the sleeve would not be too big at the wrist and it would only taper enough to allow you to flex your biceps and still have room. This certainly is not an issue I have to worry about

. By keeping the sleeve narrower all the way to the armpit, the range of motion increases without dragging the jacket up when you lift your arm or causing the sleeves to ride up to your elbows while driving. Think of a nicely tailored long-sleeved shirt. The connection of the sleeve to the body is not halfway down the side of the shirt. The same would be true of a perfectly-tailored jacket in my opinion. This mostly changed when requests were made to accomodate multiple layers. Indy did not wear multiple layers and as such the jacket was more form-fitting than the one we get. You cannot fault Peter since it must be difficult to fit a form from another country. Anybody that doubts this just needs to try on a vintage jacket and see how a form-fitting jacket should fits.

FLATHEAD · Post by **FLATHEAD** » Fri Dec 17, 2004 11:21 pm

Rick5150 is right on track with this comments about the fit of a jacket,
versus how it rides up, or does not ride up when you lift your arms.

I have one of LL Beans older versions of their G-1, shearling lined
jackets, that was made about 10 or so years ago.

The sleeves are very form fitting, and the armpits are just big enough
to fit your arms thru.

When I lift my arms, I can just about get them all the way over my
head before the body of the jacket will start to move up.

I tried a newer version of the LL Bean G-1, but it is FAR inferior to what
was offered years ago!!

Now, the lining is what they call wool pile, which is made by shearing the
wool from the sheep, and weaving the wool thru a fabric, and cutting it
to an even length. The older version that I have is true shearling
sheepskin, which means the hide still has the wool attached. This means
they have to kill the sheep to get it. And it is much better made, and does
not loose the wool like the pile versions.

But anyway, the newer one is made with the armpit holes lowered down
more, making it easier to get on and off, and layer more clothes under it.

But, because of this, when I raise my arms up, I can get them about
half way up, about straight out, so I look like I am a cross, and the jacket
body will start to ride up.

By the time I get my hands over my head, the jacket has risen up past
my belt by about 4 inches.

My Wested does this too, but because the bottom is an open bottom, and
it does not have the rib knitting like a G-1 or A-2, the jacket will ride back
down as I put my arms down, where the other type will stay up on my
beltline, and I have to pull it back down.

The form fitting sleeves also make it easier to move your arms back
and forth in front of you, and behind you. This makes for a more
comfortable jacket to wear while driving, or doing actual activities other
than just sitting or standing still.

So this is a very good point to bring up to everyone, and I give two
thumbs up to Rick for doing it!!

Flathead

ps, I like the little Jeep you have as your signature Rick!!

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 4:37 pm

LL, you seem to be a decent sized guy; I wouldn't ask for any extra taper in the arms, besides what is there naturally, myself.

Bogie1943 · Post by **Bogie1943** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 12:14 am

Has anyone else ever wondered what exactly was going on in that original photo with Ford? I have long pondered it, casually of course, oh why couldn't I have been on that crew!

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:33 am

Bogie1943 wrote:Has anyone else ever wondered what exactly was going on in that original photo with Ford? I have long pondered it, casually of course, oh why couldn't I have been on that crew!

I think he's showing how he might throw a punch, or otherwise move, in the scene they are about to shoot. Or he might be giving an anecdote about punching someone, or something...

Tapered vs. Standard sleeve?

Tapered vs. Standard sleeve?

I'm Wondering

Re: I'm Wondering