How to hem Indy pants

Bufflehead Jones · Post by **Bufflehead Jones** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 1:26 am

I am about to have the tailor hem my new Wested pants. I want to know the most screen accuarate way to hem the pants. I asked this in a post I made when I first got the pants and got a few helpful tips.

Several people have said to hem them with about 4 inches of material on the inside to keep the speedlacers of the Aldens from snagging the hem. Someone else said to hem them with three eyelets on the Aldens showing.

I did a search on hemming pants and didn't find any screenshots showing a good picture of Indy's pants where you can accuarately judge the length. I was wondering if anyone knew offhand where a good picture of the pants hem might be?

Also, I have seen some people that seem to have the pants hemmed longer than what I seem to remember Indy's pants looking like. These are hemmed at the more modern length, where the pants make a nice break or maybe even too much of a break on the front of the shoe and hang at an angle down near the top of the heel in the rear.

Correct me if I am wrong, but didn't Indy wear his pants where they hung straight down until they just started touching his shoes? If they were any higher they would have been deemed high waters. Maybe my memory is failing once again.

I think it would need to be a picture of Indy standing very straight. If he was bending while fighting in a picture or during any type of action shot, the length would not be very accurate.

I would hate to have to watch the whole trilogy again just to search for pants length. I just want to get these things hemmed so I can start wearing them. If anyone can point me towards some good pictures or give any more advice, it would certainly be appreciated.

Indiana Jerry · Post by **Indiana Jerry** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 3:29 am

Buffle -

In this pic he isn't standing perfectly still, but I almost think this pic is BETTER for what you want - one leg on the ground, next leg just lifting outward, knee just beginning to bend - it's the moment he begins to take the 'leap of faith' from the lion's head.

If that's what you are looking for, you have Neolithic to thank.

This quote is from this thread:
http://www.indygear.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9387

Neolithic wrote:But anyway... here's a possible view of what Indy IV may look like:
http://www.dannorth.com/indy/graphics/iv.jpg

Hope that helps -
IJ

Merrick · Post by **Merrick** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 5:57 am

Bufflehead Jones wrote: I would hate to have to watch the whole trilogy again

Blasphemy!

binkmeisterRick · Post by **binkmeisterRick** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 9:22 am

Bufflehead Jones wrote:I am about to have the tailor hem my new Wested pants. I want to know the most screen accuarate way to hem the pants.

I would think that if you used thread, that would be pretty screen acurate. Staples tend to show.

bink

Scandinavia Jones · Post by **Scandinavia Jones** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 10:35 am

Most of 3M's products are right out, too.

Bufflehead Jones · Post by **Bufflehead Jones** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 10:35 am

Merrick, I knew that part of that sentance was going to be taken out of context and people were going to make me rue the day that I typed it. I don't really hate having an excuse to watch the trilogy again. I just really wanted to get those pants to the tailor today so that I could wear them soon. I guess that is not going to happen today as I have more research to do.

I already did a search and didn't find exactly want I wanted. I know pictures of what I need to see are in the bowels of COW somewhere. The shot provided by Indiana Jerry is the kind of shot that I am looking for. I just can't see as much detail in that as I would like.

I must admit that I am not that good with computers. I really have no patience with them at all. I am smart enough to know that a computer is a machine and it only does what the person operating it tells it to do. Some of the things that I see people here on COW do with pictures is truely amazing to me. It is beyond my skill level with computers. So, don't tell me to just enlarge a shot to see more detail or something because I wouldn't have a clue.

I am really not a patient man when it comes to computers. I have already run out of patience with my computer after spending considerable time last night searching for this info with little or no results. Anyone that has met me probably thinks I am a pretty laid back, easy going guy. Put me behind a computer and I can go ballistic in a heartbeat. This was just a last ditch effort on my part to see if someone knew exactly where something like this could be located. I do really appreciate the help and any effort that anyone expended on my behalf.

I know exactly how I would have them hemmed if they were just pants that I wanted to wear. But these are going to be strictly Indy pants and I don't want them hemmed to my preferences but to Indy's (reality check: or at least the prop department's preference).

I am much better with home theater stuff and dvd players than I am with computers. I may have to search through the dvds until I find a good shot of his pants length.

Bink, there are many things that I do well. Computers and sewing just don't happen to be two of them. Staples are my preferred method of sewing, that is why I am taking them to a tailor. Since it needs to be a blind hem, I just couldn't get the blind stapling technique down. Thanks for the tip, anyway.

binkmeisterRick · Post by **binkmeisterRick** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 10:51 am

Bufflehead Jones wrote:Staples are my preferred method of sewing, that is why I am taking them to a tailor. Since it needs to be a blind hem, I just couldn't get the blind stapling technique down. Thanks for the tip, anyway.

What?! You're taking them to a blind tailor?

"Here are your hemmed trousers. Don't mind the blood stains, sir."

Indiana Jerry · Post by **Indiana Jerry** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 11:49 am

Scandinavia Jones wrote:Most of 3M's products are right out, too.

Okay, great, but after the Cairo bar scene, I thought duct tape was screen accurate...long story short, how do you unhem pants you hemmed w/ duct tape? (And how to I get them off me, for that matter?)

Indiana Jerry · Post by **Indiana Jerry** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 11:53 am

Bufflehead Jones wrote:The shot provided by Indiana Jerry is the kind of shot that I am looking for. I just can't see as much detail in that as I would like.

Woo-hoo! I was almost useful for once! Mom will be proud!

Buffle - Don't worry, I haven't given up looking, I've found a few other shots where the length is visible, but not close up...hard to get a close up when standing, it'd probably just be a pic of his leg, like if he just steps into a frame and they show his boots first and pan up.

But if I find something better I'll pass it along.

Anybody got a screen grab of a boots-up reveal?

J

binkmeisterRick · Post by **binkmeisterRick** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 12:20 pm

Indiana Jerry wrote: Okay, great, but after the Cairo bar scene, I thought duct tape was screen accurate...long story short, how do you unhem pants you hemmed w/ duct tape? (And how to I get them off me, for that matter?)

Duct tape?!

Man, you guys are killing me! First it's staples, then a blind tailor, and now duct tape?

If you only taped then in and didn't stitch anything over the tape, then I'd just gingerly remove the tape and you should be fine. I don't see how it would necessarily do any harm to the fabric, other than the possibility of leaving residue from the tape.

bink

Ghos7a55assin · Post by **Ghos7a55assin** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 12:36 pm

I just found a clip. It's at 1 minutes and 9 seconds of Raiders. You can't see frames too clearly if you pause it, but when you watch it, there are parts when Indy puts his foot down, and you can see where his hem-line reaches from the front. Actually, after watching it over and over, he puts his foot own at around 1 minute 12 seconds, and the writing goes away, so you can see just his Aldens and pants.

Also, the part when he wipes the tarantulas onto the floor, there is a closeup of his foot when the spiders land.

There are shots of his legs straight when he is crossing the temple at the beginning of raiders. AHA! Ok i'm watching it on the computer right now, and at 7:08 in the temple, there is a clear shot of the aldens in relation to the pants. At 7:20, he takes a step, and his feet are together. The pants are pretty much straight at this point I think. The pants do drape over the shoes, almost touching the sole of the heel. Just pure speculation, I think this would be around where they should end, because if he wasn't standing up straight, the pants would be sagging at the heel at the back. Take a look for yourself.

Hope some of this helps. I'm going to enjoy the rest of the movie now.

agent5 · Post by **agent5** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 12:43 pm

What Noel Howard told me matches up to what I see on-screen. You want a 3-4 inch hem with the front tapered up 1 inch. In other words, you want the front of the pants to be 1 inch higher than the back. You can see this in several scenes in the film.

Indiana Jerry · Post by **Indiana Jerry** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 1:25 pm

binkmeisterRick wrote:
Indiana Jerry wrote: Okay, great, but after the Cairo bar scene, I thought duct tape was screen accurate...long story short, how do you unhem pants you hemmed w/ duct tape? (And how to I get them off me, for that matter?)
Duct tape?! Man, you guys are killing me! First it's staples, then a blind tailor, and now duct tape? If you only taped then in and didn't stitch anything over the tape, then I'd just gingerly remove the tape and you should be fine. I don't see how it would necessarily do any harm to the fabric, other than the possibility of leaving residue from the tape.

bink

Got you.

Did you really think I was using 'screen-accurate duct-tape'?

Love you, Bink.

schwammy · Post by **schwammy** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 1:29 pm

agent5 wrote:What Noel Howard told me matches up to what I see on-screen. You want a 3-4 inch hem with the front tapered up 1 inch. In other words, you want the front of the pants to be 1 inch higher than the back. You can see this in several scenes in the film.

Agent5 said exactly what I would have said. The front-to-back ratio and 4-inch rule are two things I didn't know about when I got my trousers hemmed, and I wish I had known about them. The 4-inch hem gives the bottom of the legs a really nice heavy drape that is part of the charm of the screen look, and the front-to-back tilt makes them work well with the Aldens.

Indiana Jerry · Post by **Indiana Jerry** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 1:35 pm

Ghos7a55assin wrote:I just found a clip. ... Hope some of this helps. I'm going to enjoy the rest of the movie now.

Thanks for doing the homework! Buffle, that's what I meant, some shots past Indy's feet, like w/ the tarantulas or in the temple.

Great work, Ghost.

J

binkmeisterRick · Post by **binkmeisterRick** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 1:36 pm

Indiana Jerry wrote:Got you. Did you really think I was using 'screen-accurate duct-tape'?

What, you think that giant boulder in the opening sequence of Raiders is real? Everyone knows it's just a big ball of duct tape. *duh*

bink

Indiana Jerry · Post by **Indiana Jerry** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 1:38 pm

binkmeisterRick wrote:
Indiana Jerry wrote:Got you. Did you really think I was using 'screen-accurate duct-tape'?
What, you think that giant boulder in the opening sequence of Raiders is real? Everyone knows it's just a big ball of duct tape. *duh*

bink

Ooh, that would have really hurt to peel off his face...

...and the residue on his HJ and Wested! Horrors! Now that scene is even scarier! Run Indy, RUN!

Scandinavia Jones · Post by **Scandinavia Jones** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 5:36 pm

I've heard about duct tape fedoras, but this is something else...

Never thought I'd use that emoticon...

Bufflehead Jones · Post by **Bufflehead Jones** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 5:51 pm

Thanks guys, this is exactly the kinds of things that I have been looking for. You know it is funny, I see so many screenshots of things that are posted and then when I want to look at them for a reason, I know they are in there somewhere but I can't find them.

That is good to know about the 3-4 inch hem. I hope I have enough length. I have long legs and I may be able to have a 3 inch hem but I doubt that there is enough material for a 4 inch hem. I will have to make sure that the tailor knows not to cut any material off of these pants.

I wonder if the costume people put a 3-4 inch hem in HF's pants to keep him from having a problem with the speedlacers catching on the hem. That may be why the pants were done like this in the first place. Maybe not for that particular look, but to lessen problems during action scenes.

Thanks Ghos7 for locating some good places on the dvd to check this out. I hope you enjoy the rest of the movie.

Now, I wonder if the hem length was consistant for all three movies. I knew there would probably be some good shots of his feet as he was about to take the leap of faith. But everything else that I have is Raiders, so I will use some of the best scenes from Raiders as something to go by.

I think that with the fact that I have some Aldens and HF wore them in the movie, it should be simple to notice in a screenshot exactly where his hem comes on his shoe. That should make a good point of reference. If I want the front to be 1 inch higher than the rear and I can find a shot showing me exactly where the front comes on the Aldens, then I should have it.

Indiana Jerry · Post by **Indiana Jerry** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 9:50 pm

Buffle -

Just one caution - if your build is diff than HF's, even when you get the perfect length and break to the pants, you MIGHT not completely like the way they ride or feel. A lesson learned from the leather jacket wars on the other forums - nailing how it fit HF can be a trap sometimes. Not trying to *ee on your fedora, just wanted to temper your expectations, in case frustration sets in at the end.

J

P.S.

Scandinavia Jones wrote:I've heard about duct tape fedoras, but this is something else...

Never thought I'd use that emoticon...

Something tells me you've been WAITING for a chance to use that emoticon...

Who wants to make a duct tape actual size boulder for the QM IndyFest? ("No, really, it's a prop...sorry, ma'am, let me peel you off of that...")

Bufflehead Jones · Post by **Bufflehead Jones** » Tue Sep 28, 2004 1:56 am

Not to worry, Jerry. The first thing I will do is put them on where they are com-for-ta-ble (with Belloq accent) to me. That is where I am going to wear them screen accurate or not. Then we will adjust for length. All I am worried about is if the length is screen accurate. I have tried all of the gear on with the Wested pants and it looks fine. I just needed to hem the pants.

I checked out some of those scenes at the beginning of Raiders and I think the ones where he is approaching the idol and is trying not to step on the booby traps are the best to look at the length of the pants, that I have found.

I am not sure who it was that said that there should be three eyelets showing on the Aldens but that is exactly what this scene showed. One still frame that I had showed his leg straight and the pants broke on top of his Aldens and the pants ended right at the third eyelet up from the bottom.

Armed with all this info, I think I am off to visit the tailor tomorrow. As long as he follows directions, it should look great. Thanks to everyone that helped me with all these tips and suggestions.

agent5 · Post by **agent5** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 1:10 am

Buff,
I found a pic of me on Eurobeat King's website from DCon which shows very well how my altered Noel Howard pants look.

http://images.cosplay.com/showphoto.php?photo=195991

I always thought they had all the details down but they were way too baggy, so I eventually took them in and had them take them in all around to make them fit alot more snug. FINALLY it all came together. My gear now looked like the gear from the film and all it took was the slimmer look all around. I also had my NH shirt taken in which helped bring it all together too along with the slimmer patterned Wested.

When I took my pants in to get altered I also took my Wested along and pulled my pants up to the halfway point of the pocket of the jacket which is where it should be if you want it screen accurate. I had the problem of not having enough material to do the 3" hem but they just added more material to give me the hem I wanted since I never see the inside anyways. Looks fine. But the pants need to be taken in as much as possible, at least on me, in order to look like the ones in Raiders. My first experience at trying to get my first pair altered was a nightmare that I learned from quickly.

IndianaGuybrush · Post by **IndianaGuybrush** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 9:48 am

Agent 5, I got a question about that Optimo you're wearing in those pics.

it looks like you've covered it with Fuller's Earth to get the rough and tumble Indy effect (looks great). Did you leave it dusty afterward or did you clean it. If you cleaned it, how? Did you have to get it professionally cleaned?

I'm putting together an Indy costume for Halloween and I would like to use my Optimo, but I do not want it permanently caked with Fuller's Earth, so I think I may end up using my keppler.

agent5 · Post by **agent5** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 1:25 pm

The Fullers will stick on to some effect. You can slap it off and most of it wil come off but it will never get AS clean or sharp as it was without a professional cleaning/reblock. When I took it in last year to Optimo they honestly thought I was out in the dirt and it was the real deal. They cleaned it and it came out just fine.

Bottom line is if you're planning on getting it cleaned soon or don't mind it looking slightly dusty when you're done with Halloween, do it. If not, stick to the Keppler. But, it will come out. No questions there. Won't ruin the hat at all as long as you use the NATURAL Fullers. Any other color has the possibility of staining.

Indiana Jerry · Post by **Indiana Jerry** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 3:54 pm

Does the Fuller's come of your jacket easier? Or is that the same deal - once it's on, it'll be in the seams until you do a serious cleaning?

IndianaGuybrush · Post by **IndianaGuybrush** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 3:58 pm

I think it comes off the leather with a damp cloth.

I guess I'm going to have to do some thinking before Oct. 31st runs around. Is it better to have a Keppler with fuller's earth on it, or a clean Optimo?

Indiana Jerry · Post by **Indiana Jerry** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 4:01 pm

IndianaGuybrush wrote:I think it comes off the leather with a damp cloth.

I guess I'm going to have to do some thinking before Oct. 31st runs around. Is it better to have a Keppler with fuller's earth on it, or a clean Optimo?

That question sounds like it deserves a thread all it's own, under Fedora - and I'll follow it if you do start one. My vote would be 'dusty'...the clean look is nice, but the dust is all Indy. I plan to get mine dirty one way or the other and probably never clean it.

Gobler · Post by **Gobler** » Tue Oct 12, 2004 5:26 pm

Back onto the hem location. Am I correct in thinking that roughly 3 inches is the fold of material? So the stiching is 3 inches up from the bottom of the pant leg? Or does this mean they folded 3 inches worth of material? Kinda confugaled on this one.

Cheers,
Jeff

agent5 · Post by **agent5** » Tue Oct 12, 2004 6:02 pm

So the stiching is 3 inches up from the bottom of the pant leg? Or does this mean they folded 3 inches worth of material?

Yes and yes. Take the pants to where they're good on you and make sure there is 3-4 inches of extra material. Fold underneath and stitch at the 3" mark with the pants 1" higher in the front than in the back. It's a military hem. There are several spots in all 3 films which show this. Look at when Belloq first walks up and Indy is on the ground. You can see it plain as day, unless you're blind.

Gobler · Post by **Gobler** » Tue Oct 12, 2004 6:34 pm

*tap, tap* with cain....I see now!!! thanks Agent5.

Cheers,
Jeff

Bufflehead Jones · Post by **Bufflehead Jones** » Tue Oct 12, 2004 7:20 pm

agent5 wrote:
So the stiching is 3 inches up from the bottom of the pant leg? Or does this mean they folded 3 inches worth of material?
There are several spots in all 3 films which show this. Look at when Belloq first walks up and Indy is on the ground. You can see it plain as day, unless you're blind.

Is that why they call it a blind hem?

Indiana Neri · Post by **Indiana Neri** » Fri May 27, 2005 1:04 am

Indiana Neri wrote:From another thread:

Indiana Neri wrote:Off topic: Is it me, or is there really a hem crease on the cuff of HF's pants?

Here's a still from Last Crusade, I hope this helps, Bufflehead

. It seems (no pun intended) that I have been geeting a lot of use from that one pic

.

Indy N.

BTW: What's with the duct tape-thing going around? Did they use tape in the Ciaro sceen or something? I feel out of the loop

.

eddie vader · Post by **eddie vader** » Fri May 27, 2005 10:24 am

agent5 wrote: Yes and yes. Take the pants to where they're good on you and make sure there is 3-4 inches of extra material. Fold underneath and stitch at the 3" mark with the pants 1" higher in the front than in the back. It's a military hem. There are several spots in all 3 films which show this. Look at when Belloq first walks up and Indy is on the ground. You can see it plain as day, unless you're blind.

Man, I wish Noel would have told me about this when I ordered my pants. I distinctly remember asking him how they should be hemmed and he told me two inches. Oh well, I still like them.

E. Vader

How to hem Indy pants

How to hem Indy pants

Re: How to hem Indy pants

Re: How to hem Indy pants