First wested order - TOD with extra inch in the front?

darth64 · Post by **darth64** » Thu Sep 09, 2004 11:58 pm

Next week I will order my first wested jacket ( TOD; authentic goatskin). Should I order it with the extra inch in the front to prevent ride up considering that the TOD model is one inch longer than the other models?

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 12:17 am

The concept of ride up is a weird 'un. I can't figure out whether being super thin or super stocky creates it... if you're relatively normal, I don't think it happens. Well, it doesn't happen on mine, anyway, even without the extra inch - and I'm on the way to stockyville, myself.

So to answer your question, I personally wouldn't add the inch to the front. To my mind it creates an imbalanced kind of jacket.

Scandinavia Jones · Post by **Scandinavia Jones** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 7:20 am

Mikey has a valid point here - modern garments are made to compensate for our corporeal shortcomings...

I believe the major ride up problems comes with the material - no matter how supple the leather, it won't drape as fabric does. Every leather jacket I have owned do ride up somewhat, due to the stiffness of the leather (and depending on what you do while wearing it - gymnastic moves, or Kate Bush-dancing might make the jacket - and the wearer - look funny).
This is especially the case with "vintage (straight) cut" leather jackets. The better they are made to fit, (the more accurate measurements sent to Peter) the lesser the ride-up, methinks.

darth64 · Post by **darth64** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 7:27 am

BUT Should I order it with the extra inch in the front to prevent ride up considering that the TOD model is one inch longer than the other models?

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 7:31 am

INDIANAMIKEY wrote:It doesn't create an "imbalanced" jacket,,,,,,,most modern jackets are cut this way,,,with the extra inch. The Wested jackets are the ones that are cut straight. Modern jackets are cut with this extra material to get rid of the ride up problem. Hold up one of your regular coats or jackets, you'll see that they are longer in front than in back,,,,this is that extra inch that we refer to here.....

Hang on... we're talking about something that is two different heights. That is imbalanced.

Whether it works and looks good, or doesn't work and looks bad is irrelevant to what I'm saying.

If something has two different heights, it is imbalanced.

Mr. Das · Post by **Mr. Das** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 7:31 am

If it's one inch longer all around the jacket, then that doesn't change the logic behind adding the extra inch to begin with, does it?

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 7:34 am

Mr. Das wrote:If it's one inch longer all around the jacket, then that doesn't change the logic behind adding the extra inch to begin with, does it?

No, but if you go adding another inch to a jacket that's already got an extra inch, then you add ANOTHER inch to the front, the jacket starts getting longer and longer and you're getting away from the real cut of the jacket and where it should be sitting, just on or below your belt.

Scandinavia Jones · Post by **Scandinavia Jones** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 7:39 am

I have the ToD, and apart from me ordering too big a jacket (got it down one size in a tumble dryer) I've never experienced any ride-up problems... It's a good fit length-wise.

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 7:40 am

Did you get an R or an L fitting?

Scandinavia Jones · Post by **Scandinavia Jones** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 7:40 am

I ordered Le regular.

Rob · Post by **Rob** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 7:42 am

Interesting... I was about to hypothesise that an L fitting might eliminate ride up because it's already a little longer... but you just sunk that

Swindiana · Post by **Swindiana** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 10:03 am

I added an overall of2 inches to my ToD which has an extra inch to begin with. Upon that, I'm not sure if it was regular or long. I did mention I had a long back though. So... Probably long, adding an additional 3 inches to how an original Raiders would fit me... Those lovely 80's women's jackets ending right by your belly button. Think I could get away with that!?

Regards,
Swindiana

antiquity collector · Fri Sep 10, 2004 12:38 pm

You don't need the extra inch if you provide your correct measurements. Also give your waist size and torso length and tell Peter where you would like it to land at the bottom (waist or however lower you like it).

If you are nervous, just ask Peter to keep an eye out for it. He did for me and it came out perfect.

Jackets are made on sizeable sewing mannequins that are adjustable to different measurements. As long as you give correct #'s they will see if it hangs straight.

AC

Mr. Das · Post by **Mr. Das** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 12:40 pm

I was about to hypothesise that an L fitting might eliminate ride up because it's already a little longer... but you just sunk that

He said "Le Regular" as in French for "The Regular"....so theory still in tact for now....until Flathead comes in and either confirms or denies your theory.

Post by **Michaelson** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 12:44 pm

I can't help but think about what happens with the longer jacket when you climb into your car. Sure, it doesn't ride up while you're standing, but when you sit down, until the leather finally decides to break in, all that excess length ends up pushing the jacket up around the top of your ears. Been there, done that, looked silly. (grins) Regards. Michaelson

Jack Flanders · Post by **Jack Flanders** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 1:02 pm

Most people don't have the choice of cut when they get a jacket off the rack. Try going to a leather store in a mall and asking for a trim here and there and see what they say. My guess is that the jacket will fit fine because its made to fit an average body type. Granted, nobody is average. 99% of Westeds customers are probably not in Europe. So most of them won't be able to be professionally fitted. People will just have to live with less-than-perfect or they will go nuts.

Post by **Michaelson** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 1:04 pm

...and Jack, for many of us, that's not that long a trip either.

Regards. Michaelson

Swindiana · Post by **Swindiana** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 3:18 pm

all that excess length ends up pushing the jacket up around the top of your ears

And your eyes too then?

-Well, officer... It all started with a movie that came out back in 1981...

Regards,
Swindiana

Post by **Michaelson** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 4:30 pm

See, I KNEW somebody would understand!

High regards. Michaelson

ob1al · Post by **ob1al** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 4:44 pm

all that excess length ends up pushing the jacket up around the top of your ears

And when you start ordering extra-wide brimmed fedoras as a life-saving measure, you know it's time to click a new 'ORDER' at Wested.

Personally, I much prefer a longer jacket. I always order my jackets slightly longer but end up wishing I had ordered them a tad longer again - like a perpetual 'groundhog day' effect. The exception was my second jacket, a cowhide - I went the whole (ground) hog and ordered it extra long - it looked awful and I sent it back to be remade.

I have an old Levi's denim jacket that fits exactly like I would like an Indyjacket to fit in the length. Although I am very happy with my most recent jacket, a goatskin, I plan that (when I come to order again) I'll send this jacket to Peter to use for length.

Compulsive obsessive? me...? Nah!